The Argentine Boa is a sub-species of Boa Constrictor that is native to Argentina and Paraguay. This is a large heavy-bodied snake that can only be found in the warm sub-tropical regions of these countries.
Taxonomy
The scientific name for the Argentine Boa is Boa constrictor occidentalis. Being a sub-species of Boa Constrictor, they are closely related to other Boas such as the Red Tailed Boa (BCC) and the Common Boa (BCI).
Description
Most Argentine Boas grow to lengths of 6-10ft in length. Females are generally larger than males while males typically have a longer tail. However, this isn’t always an accurate way to distinguish gender.
The colour and patterning of these snakes can vary greatly but they typically have a black or dark brown background. The patterning on these snakes is very busy and can vary in colour from white to orange or red.
Natural Habitat and Distribution
The Argentine Boa is native to parts of Argentina and Paraguay. There are also reports that the snake’s range extends into the southern parts of Bolivia.
Their range is believed to be limited to the North-Eastern regions of Argentina. They cannot be found West of the Andes mountains while their range is believed to be extend as far as the Parana River in Paraguay.
These snakes prefer to live in rainforest type habitats where the humidity is high. However, they have also adapted to live in forest clearings providing there is still enough foliage for shelter.
They are a terrestrial species and will spend a lot of time in tree hollows, under foliage or even in abandoned burrows. However, they are known to climb trees in search of food or simply just to perch.
Feeding an Argentine Boa
A hatchling Argentine Boa can be fed one appropriately sized rodent every week. An appropriate size is slightly smaller than the girth of the snake at the snakes largest point.
Some people choose to offer rodents that are the same size as the girth of the snake. This is fine too but we don’t recommend offering food that is larger than the snake, at least not to juveniles.
An Argentine Boa has a slow metabolism but feeding weekly is still recommended for small Boas as they are growing and will utilise the energy.
These snakes are generally great eaters and will readily accept a meal without hesitation. Don’t confuse this for hunger though, as increasing their feeds can lead to obesity.
Judge how often to feed your snake based on their body condition as opposed to their willingness to eat. If a snake looks underweight, then you need to feed in more frequently or larger meals. Vice versa if they look overweight.
For an adult Argentine Boa, you can feed weekly or every 10-14 days. Whichever you prefer. If you are feeding weekly, the meal should be on the smaller side. If feeding every 10-14 days, the meal should be at least the same size as the girth of the snake.
Rats are the preferred source of food for an Argentine Boa. They will provide your snake with a lot more nutrients than a mouse. Larger boas may need to be fed rabbits, especially if they are on a feeding schedule of every 10-14 days.
While rodents will make up the bulk of your Argentine Boas diet, they can also be fed the occasional rabbit, chick or quail.
Argentine Boa Enclosure
An Argentine Boa can be kept in an enclosure measuring 2ft x 1ft for the first year or so. After that you will need to upgrade the enclosure as they will quickly outgrow it.
You can move a yearling up to a 3ft enclosure, but you can go bigger if you want as they will also outgrow this enclosure in a short period of time.
An adult Argentine Boa will need a large enclosure. This is something you need to consider before purchasing that small hatchling. It will not fit in that small enclosure in the corner of your room for very long.
An adult Argentine Boa is a large snake so they will need a lot of space. We recommend an enclosure measuring at least 6 x 3 feet. An enclosure this size is difficult to find but there are moulded plastic setups that are perfect for these snakes.
If this isn’t an option, most people house them in a custom-built enclosure. This is a great alternative, but you need to plan your build carefully. You can check out our guide on DIY Reptile Enclosures for more information.
Wood is the most common material used in custom enclosures. However, you will need to seal the wood with a non-toxic sealant to prevent warping and moulding as these snakes like high humidity.
An alternative material to use is Sheet PVC. This material has many similar properties to wood with the additional benefit of not moulding or warping when wet.
Whatever enclosure you use, it is important to ensure your Argentine Boa has a clean water bowl at all times. A large bowl or basin is ideal as these snakes will soak in their water.
A hide in both the warm and cool end is also important. This will allow your snake to feel secure while thermoregulating. This is particularly important for young boas.
Light and Heat
The hot spot in an Argentine Boa enclosure should be around 90F. The cool side of the enclosure can drop to around 80F. This will allow your snake to regulate their body temperature.
Overhead heat such as a basking light or a ceramic bulb works great for these snakes. You can also use an under-tank heat mat. The heat mat must be placed under the tank and not inside the enclosure.
These snakes do not require any special lighting such as UVA or UVB. If you do have lighting in your enclosure, it must be turned off at night to give your Argentine Boa a proper day/night cycle.
If you are using a basking bulb, it will also need to be turned off at night. If this is the case, you should also have a heat mat under the enclosure to allow your snake to keep warm at night.
Argentine Boa Humidity and Substrate
An Argentine Boa needs to be kept in relatively high humidity. These snakes do best in humidity levels of around 60-70%. There are several ways to achieve this level of humidity.
Place a large water bowl in the enclosure. This will need to be changed regularly to prevent bacteria from building up in the stagnant water. Your Boa may soak in their water bowl so offer them a large enough bowl if possible.
The only other thing you should need to do to raise humidity is to spray the walls and substrate. You do not want to saturate the substrate. A light spray daily is usually enough to achieve 60-70% humidity.
Choose a substrate that can hold humidity well without moulding. We recommend a substrate such as Cypress Mulch or Coco Fibre. If the humidity is naturally high where you live and you don’t need to spray the substrate much, you may get away with newspaper or paper towel.
Handling an Argentine Boa
An Argentine Boa can be a food orientated snake. It is a good idea to get it into a feeding routine while young to reduce the chance of getting bit when the snake is older.
Some common practices include feeding in a different enclosure. This will reduce the likelihood of the snake associating the cage opening with feeding time. When handling you can also remove the snake first with a hook. This is often enough for the snake to know that it is not getting fed.
While handling the Boa, always support the weight of the snake. You can allow the snake to crawl over you but don’t allow them to wrap around your neck, especially if you are alone.
If your Argentine Boa is quite large, it may be a good idea to only handle them when someone else is present in the room. They are a large powerful snake and have the ability to cause severe injuries.
Argentine Boa Breeding
Argentine Boas typically breed in the dry season. This usually occurs between the months of May and August when the temperature also drops by a couple of degrees. If breeding these Boas in captivity, these ‘weather conditions’ should be replicated.
These snakes are an ovoviviparous meaning they give birth to a litter of live babies as opposed to laying eggs. The snakes will go through a gestation period of between 5-8 months before giving birth.
Litter size can vary greatly depending on several factors and can range anywhere from 10-40 babies, with around 20-25 being more common. Some factors that affect clutch size include age and weight of the female and whether she has bred before.