Blood Python Care Sheet -

The Blood Python is a medium sized, heavy bodied snake. They are a non-venomous species that usually don’t exceed 5-6 feet in length. Their scientific name is Python Brongersmai and they are one of the three species of Short-Tailed Pythons.

The other two Short-Tailed Pythons are the Borneo Short-Tailed Python (P. Breitensteini) and the Sumatran Short-Tailed Python (P. Curtus). The Borneo Short-Tailed Python can be found on the island of Borneo while the Sumatran Short-Tailed Python can be found in the Southern and Western parts of the island of Sumatra.

Blood Python Description

The colour pattern of these snakes can vary greatly. They are usually beige, brown, tan or red in colour. The main colour pattern of the snake is coated with yellow or light brown blotches or stripes that run the length of the snake’s body.

The Blood Python is the only one of the three Short-Tailed Pythons to have a red colour phase, which is where the snake got its common name, Blood Python. Their tail is very short in comparison to their overall length.

Natural Habitat and Distribution

The Blood Python can be found on Sumatra and other Indonesian Islands as well as in Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysia. The type locale of the Blood Python is Sumatra. This is the largest Island that is completely governed by Indonesia. It is located in the Western Region of Indonesia.

They share much of their geographical range with species such as the Cobalt Blue Tarantula, Asian Vine Snake and the Dragon Snake, although it has its own unique habitat.

These snakes like to live in humid environments such as Rainforests, Marshes and Swamps. They can also be found around rivers and lakes. They have also adapted to live on agricultural land where rodents are plentiful. They are known to be particularly fond of oil palm plantations.

Behavior

Blood Pythons prefer to live near water. They are a nocturnal species, meaning they are most active at night. They are an ambush predator and will lay motionless on land or under water, waiting to ambush unsuspecting prey.

Blood Pythons are constrictors, killing their prey by coiling around them and constricting. They find prey with the help of heat-sensing pits that are located on their upper lips. These Pits help them to detect their warm-blooded prey.

While these snakes are heavy bodied and appear very sluggish, they are excellent climbers. They spend most of their time on land and around bodies of water, but they can and will climb when required.

Blood Pythons tend to have a reputation for being aggressive. Much of this bad reputation comes from the initial population of wild caught Blood Python’s which were quite aggressive. However, after years of captive breeding, much of this aggressiveness is no longer witnessed.

Juveniles are often nippy but will usually grow out of it with regular handling. Short, regular handling sessions will help the snake realise that you are not a threat. If you are worried about getting bit, you can wear gloves while handling nippy snakes.

Feeding a Blood Python

If your Blood Python doesn’t mind being handled before feeding, you can move them to a separate enclosure before offering them a meal. However, many snakes will refuse to eat if you handle them right before a meal. The benefit of feeding in a different enclosure is that it is less likely to think you are going to feed it every time you put your hand into the enclosure.

Removing the snake from their enclosure with a snake hook prior to handling is usually enough to prevent yourself from getting bit. This is because a feeding response isn’t triggered, and you are also eliminating cage aggression.

Juvenile Blood Pythons can be fed an appropriately sized rodent every week. The girth of the rodent should not exceed the girth of the snake at its largest point.

Once fed, your snake should not be handled for at least 24 hours after being fed. Excessive handling right after a meal could lead to regurgitation.

Adult snakes don’t need to be fed as often. You can either offer them a large meal every 10-14 days or feed them weekly. If feeding weekly, offer rodents that are a little smaller than the snake’s girth.

Similar to other snakes, it is not uncommon for Blood Pythons to go off food during the winter. As long as they are maintaining a healthy body weight, this is nothing to worry about.

Simply continue to offer meals to your snake every week or two until they start feeding again. Be sure to check your husbandry to ensure there is no other reason that they have stopped feeding.

Blood Python Housing

A Blood Python will do well in a number of different types of enclosures. Commonly used enclosure types include glass, wooden and plastic enclosures. Each of these have their own pros and cons.

Glass enclosures are aesthetically pleasing and can be used to create a naturalistic setup. However, a large glass vivarium is expensive, and it can be quite difficult to control heat.

Wooden enclosures are cheap, and many people choose to build their own wooden setups. They are good at maintaining heat, but they do not last as long as other enclosures.

Similar to wooden enclosures, plastic enclosures are great at maintaining heat. They are also very easy to clean and disinfect. However, they are usually a little more expensive than wooden setups.

A Blood Python will require a relatively large enclosure. They are a bulky snake that require a bit of room to move around. Ideally, these snakes should be housed in an enclosure measuring 4ft x 2ft x 2ft.

You should have at least two hides in the enclosure. One at the warm end and one at the cool end. This will allow the snake to feel secure while thermoregulating.

A few sturdy branches or rocks can be added to the enclosure to give your snake something to climb on. These will have to be able to hold the weight of a bulky snake. It is vital that these objects are secure and can’t fall on your snake as this could cause injury.

A Blood Python will enjoy a large water bowl at the cool end of their enclosure. Apart from drinking out of it, your snake may also choose to soak in it. It is important to change the water bowl regularly to prevent the build-up of bacteria.

These snakes like relatively high humidity. 60-70% is ideal for a Blood Python. A large water bowl is required along with daily misting to keep the humidity levels up. It is a good idea to use a substrate that holds humidity well.

Light and Heat

Blood Pythons do well when kept at temperatures in the mid to low 80s. Try aim to have a warm spot of around 85F during the day. The cool side of the enclosure can drop to around 80F.

The most common methods to heat a Blood Python enclosure is with a heat mat or ceramic heater. A ceramic heater should be protected with a bulb guard to prevent the snake from getting burnt.

Whatever method you choose to heat the enclosure, you must connect the heat source to a high-quality thermostat. This will ensure that the temperatures remain at an optimal level.

These snakes don’t require UBV light. If you choose to add lights to your Blood Python enclosure, they should be turned off for 12 hours each night. This is to ensure that your snake is exposed to a proper day/night cycle.

Substrate

Blood Pythons like to be kept in a humid environment. Humidity levels should be kept between 60-70%. Your choice of substrate will go a long way to help increase the humidity level in the enclosure.

Try to choose a substrate that holds humidity well without moulding. Cypress Mulch or Orchid Bark are good for this. You could also offer the snake a damp hide. This can be as simple as a container filled with damp sphagnum moss.

Juveniles can be kept on damp paper towel. It is a good idea to keep an area of the enclosure dry to allow the snake to dry off. If a snake is kept in constant damp conditions there is a chance that they will develop scale rot.

Handling a Blood Python

These snakes are renowned for being quite aggressive. However, much of this bad reputation comes from the initial population of wild caught Blood Python’s. These wild caught snakes didn’t adapt well to captivity and were very defensive. However, after years of captive breeding, much of this aggressiveness is no longer witnessed.

As with any snake, you should refrain from handling them for at least 24 hours after being fed. Excessive handling right after a meal could lead to regurgitation.

Breeding Blood Pythons

Before you breed Blood Pythons, you must have a Male and Female pair of appropriate age. Males can be bred from around two years of age while females shouldn’t be bred until they are at least 3 years old.

Some breeders choose to put their Blood Pythons through a Cooling Period before breeding but this has proven to be unnecessary. The natural night-time drop in air temperature is usually all these snakes need. You should continue to offer them a hot spot of 80-85F.

You can introduce the male into the female’s enclosure during these cooler winter months. You should have an egg laying box present in the enclosure when the female is ready to lay. The eggs can then be removed and placed in an incubator. They can be incubated at around 80-84F and will hatch after around 60 days.

Hatchlings should be set up in a smaller setup. Tubs are great for hatchlings as it will allow them to feel secure and you can easily monitor their progress. Unlike many other snakes who shed their skin after a week or so, a Blood Python can take a couple of weeks to shed their first skin. They can also grow substantially during this time.